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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.